咬绳，冲坠
来源：草原
时间：2009年6月13日
地点：北京四渡
事件过程：
6月13日四渡。波兰岩友保护意大利岩友先锋攀一条5.9难度的线路，波兰岩友在北京攀岩圈颇有名气，目前是中国境内实力最强的女攀岩者之一。 意大利岩友是滑雪高手，但攀龄不长。 她当时顶绳攀已经能够非常熟练的完成那条线路。她就尝试先锋攀，她当时兴奋的说她是第一次先锋。
对于先锋攀的操作规程，我相信她已经了解了不少。但毕竟是第一次操作，她犯了一个容易被忽略的错误。在挂绳之前，为了省力，攀岩者有时会用嘴咬住绳子，再换手去挂绳子。她当时咬住绳子，同时去挂绳子，由于耐力不够，发生冲坠，绳子还在嘴里，冲坠时绳子把牙齿勒松三颗，牙根发生破裂（我没有亲见事故的过程，这是她本人在车上描述的）。
事后我紧急开车把她送回北京牙科治疗，幸运的是牙齿保住了，但估计后患不少。
总结：先锋攀时最好不要咬绳子。更不能边咬住绳子边发生冲坠。
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顶链断裂，广州白云山岩场
来源：海岸
时间：2009年5月28日
地点：广州白云山岩场
事件过程：
线路G point,我先锋攀登，登顶快挂已经挂好，（顶链不是挂片，是两个工业用圆形环，固定在岩壁上用O形锁和铁链连接）绳子扣入一快挂后，因为后面还有人要功线，我麻痹大意就把绳挂了一个快挂就让保护者把我放下来，下降约1米后突然冲坠，身体撞在下面的树上，离地约1-2米。
幸运的是我只是受轻微撞伤和皮肉的擦伤，刚开始下降时断裂了，如果已经多下降几米后断裂，会直接落到地上。
文头把顶链拆下来并做好标志，暂时禁止攀爬此线路，以待维修。
经检查，原因是顶部的一个金属环断裂。线路的顶部，是2个金属环，2个环之间用一根金属链连接，快挂是挂在底下的一个环上，此环断裂后，另一个环就不会起作用。但如果顶部挂2把快挂都挂绳，会避免此次冲坠。
更幸运的是在我这断顶链，如果是其他人在另外的情况，比方说顶绳攀，可能就会出大事故了！有的线路年岁比较久远，需要维护。
有的地方用的是一些非标准的器材，我在香港东龙岛就见过，在自制造的挂片，当时我保护另一岩友先锋攀，在挂了第5个挂片后继续爬时候冲坠，挂片断裂后再次冲坠直接到我头顶才停下来，不专业的挂片、顶链在长期的腐蚀加上受力，很脆弱。
所以提醒大家不要麻痹大意！对于一些不放心的线路，宁愿放弃攀爬。
来源：风
2009年5月28日-白云山-线路顶部锚点断裂
时间：2009年5月28日
地点：广州白云山岩场
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fatal accident in Joshua Tree 3/15/09
来源：roseraie in rockclimbing.com
Two climbers (one from San Diego, one from Anza) died from what appeared to be a Factor 2 fall just right of the White Maiden Buttress on Tahquitz Rock today. The belayer had the anchor pieces attached to him and there were some pieces still on the rope. The climbers were still tied together.
The two fell down several pitches (estimated about 3-4) over Fool’s Rush. Our best guess is that they were climbing The Step, judging from where they fell from, where their packs were, and what we learned about the ability of one of the climbers. They sustained massive injuries and shattered their helmets.
新绳烧手事故总结
来源：天空
时间：090517 周六
地点：飞越疯人院
事件经过：
我保护草原爬顶绳，用cinch保护器和sterling的9.8mm新绳。草原爬到3楼横移的时候，试了几次没法通过，就让我放他下来。当时他在我头顶一米的地方，距离地面估计3米左右。我左手掰开cinch的手柄，右手抓着绳准备制动。左手一用力掰手柄，感觉右手抓的绳很快通过，我想用力抓住绳子制动，只觉得绳子速度越来越快，然后手指间一阵火辣，抓不住绳子就松手了。然后眼前黑影一闪，嘭的一声，草原就落到地上了。整个过程只有2、3秒的时间。幸好松手的时候他离地只有一米，而且落地的时候，用右手撑了一下，没有受伤。我的右手中指和食指第二指节被轻微烧伤，没有破皮。
总结教训：
1、出事之前20分钟，我刚用cinch保护草原先锋“志愿者”和下降，用的是他的10.2mm旧绳，下降的时候没有感觉到制动段手抓不住绳的问题。所以可以肯定不是保护器的问题。而是绳子的原因。
2、使用新绳一定要戴手套，不止是先锋，顶绳保护同样重要，特别是对方体重大于自己的时候！
3、安全警钟长鸣，不能有侥幸心理。
Vail ice climber survives 72-foot fall
atenski would later free-fall 72 feet after an anchor broke. (Courtesy vaildaily.com)
first one up that morning, using a technique called “lead climbing” to ascend the ice. At the top, he prepared a rope for a different technique called “top-roping,” in which a rope runs from a person at the bottom, through an anchor at the top, and then back down to the climber.
At the top, Boratenski found nylon cords as well as a metal carabiner. He used the nylon instead of the metal as an anchor, something he now knows was a terrible mistake.
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上海Sherely抱石脚踝骨折
sherely骨折经过及呼吁建议
Sherely抱石区骨折经过:
昨日(3月1日)16:30分左右我到万体岩馆;在抱石区垫子边热身压脚边看sherely,八月,混混等女生在爬仿真岩壁下的一条线路(进入抱石区4~5米左右位置).之前几个人轮流上去都没有过,在一旁的行人,柳风等人指导下,sherely第三次攀爬完美的做好每个动作,顺利地稳稳抓住完攀点(完攀点:位于仿真岩壁下向外凸倾处的一个土黄色大手点),脚点在完攀点下方,人的身体是平衡直的. 看到sherely完攀线路,我们都为她叫好.之后看见sherely向下观察下垫子,放开手脚点,跳下.突然听到她一声惨叫,身体抱成一团; 旁边的柳风,行人等围上去查看; 我直起身心里纳闷”什么回事?身体不是在控制下主动跳落在大垫子之上的吗?并无落在垫子之间的间隙问题阿 ” .听到sherely止不住的痛苦叫声,我赶紧上前去查看, 她的右脚踝严重受伤,已经变形扭曲……看得让人心跳! 众人用岩馆的大长凳抬着,呼唤老张用车送去第六医院. 途中听到sherely在痛苦地说道 我是看了垫子跳下去的,为什么会这样?我们一边安慰她一边同柳风,行人,八月等讨论事故的原因. 送到医院后立即被送去拍片,复位? 牵引; 脚踝处居然有3处骨折,必须手术,手术费用昂贵,6个月应该恢复不了,据说可能要1年多了.
Chino died from hypothermia
来源：xpedition.be
Rough times: A friend of ours died. Chino, an Argentinean climber, died from hypothermia after an attempt on Poincenot. Sean had met Chino here in Chalten two years ago, traveled with him for a couple of weeks, and stayed at his house in Buenos Aires. We met up with him again when we arrived in Buenos Aires at the beginning of this trip.
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Ethan Pringle re-injures his shoulder during the ABS Nationals comp
来源：TheLowDown
Ethan has been plagued with injuries lately, and in the ABS final it happened again. “I extended my arm to do this huge campus/dyno rose move and as soon as my left shoulder took the first bit of my body weight, it went snap, crackle, pop, like a rice krispy. I knew it was OVER for me. My shoulder was filled with white hot pain, and so was my head. Even though I wasn’t in all that much pain, I was in shock from realizing the gravity of what I had just done…”.
来源：Ethan Pringle
Here is a copy of the Email that Roger Rogalski Sent me after reviewing my MR with his radiology expert:
Never Trust a Single Anchor
The bolt at the bottom was sheared off when the climber rappelled from it. He should have been tied into both bolts for safety.
Photograph © Stewart M. Green
Climbing is dangerous. Every time you climb you have to remember how dangerous it is—no matter how much fun you’re having. I just went out to the Garden of the Gods on the west side of Colorado Springs to evaluate a climbing accident that happened on the afternoon of December 30, 2008. I first heard about the accident in the evening when a local TV news station reported that a climber had fallen after “his spike had broken.”
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加拿大ACC：主绳使用规范
ACC Mountain Adventures Ropes Policy August, 2006
Marking of Ropes
All ropes are to be individually numbered and dated on the ends with permanent marker and those marks are to be heat-sealed under a see-through coating. If the rope has to be cut, the new end should be re-numbered (including the old date), marked with the new rope length and heat-sealed under a see-through coating.
When the middle-mark disappears, re-mark the middle with tape. Marking pens (even those sold by the rope manufacturers) have been proven to reduce the strength of the ropes.
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